Collagen, melanin, skin care
Skin & hair.
Peptides with effects on skin pigmentation, collagen synthesis or hair follicles. GHK-Cu is legally available as a cosmetic ingredient; other substances in this group are not approved.
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GHK-Cu
Copper Peptide GHK
GHK-Cu (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine with a copper(II) complex) is a naturally occurring tripeptide detected in human plasma, saliva and urine. It binds copper ions and transports them into tissue. In vitro and in preclinical models, effects on collagen synthesis, antioxidant enzyme activity and the expression of growth factors (including VEGF, FGF) have been described. The precise mechanism of action in vivo in humans has not been fully elucidated.
Melanotan II
MT-2
Melanotan II is a synthetic cyclic heptapeptide and a non-selective agonist at melanocortin receptors (MC1R, MC3R, MC4R, MC5R). Activation of MC1R in melanocytes stimulates melanin synthesis, leading to increased skin pigmentation. MC4R activation in the hypothalamus is associated with effects on sexual desire and erectile mechanisms. Unlike PT-141 (bremelanotide, a metabolite), Melanotan II has broader receptor selectivity and an additional N-terminal acetylation, resulting in a different side-effect profile.
LL-37
Cathelicidin
LL-37 is the only human cathelicidin — a 37-amino-acid peptide produced by proteolytic cleavage from the precursor protein hCAP-18. It acts directly antimicrobially by destabilising bacterial cell membranes (cationic charge + amphipathic helical structure). In addition, LL-37 has immunomodulatory functions: it activates Toll-like receptors (TLR), promotes the chemotaxis of immune cells, stimulates angiogenesis via VEGFR-2 and accelerates wound healing. LL-37 is produced mainly in neutrophils, mast cells and epithelial cells — especially after tissue injury or infection.
KPV
Lys-Pro-Val
KPV is a tripeptide (lysine-proline-valine) corresponding to the C-terminal end of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). While the full α-MSH (13 amino acids) is strongly pigmenting and binds MC1R/MC3R, the KPV fragment exerts its anti-inflammatory effects via mechanisms that are partly independent of melanocortin receptors. KPV inhibits NF-κB signalling pathways in intestinal epithelial cells and immune cells, reduces the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-8, TNF-α) and appears able to enter inflammatory cells directly. Owing to its small size (tripeptide), KPV shows good intestinal stability.
Melanotan I
Melanotan-1
Melanotan I is a linear analog of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) with increased stability through the Nle4 and D-Phe7 substitutions. It binds predominantly to the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) on melanocytes and stimulates the formation of eumelanin. This enhances skin pigmentation, which is used for photoprotection in a medical context. Unlike Melanotan II, its affinity for other melanocortin receptors is lower.
SNAP-8
SNAP-8
SNAP-8 is a cosmetic octapeptide used as a topical ingredient in anti-wrinkle products. It is derived from a segment of the SNAP-25 protein and is intended — by analogy to the mechanism of botulinum toxin, but much more weakly — to influence the formation of the SNARE complex and thus the release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular junction. The goal is reduced muscle contraction of expression lines. Evidence stems largely from manufacturers; independent data are limited.
AHK-Cu
AHK-Cu
AHK-Cu is a copper-binding tripeptide (alanine-histidine-lysine) and belongs to the family of cosmetic copper peptides, similar to the better-known GHK-Cu. The bound copper ion is considered functionally relevant. In preclinical investigations AHK-Cu has been described mainly in the context of hair-follicle stimulation and promotion of dermal cells. Use is predominantly topical/cosmetic.
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